The Journey to St Kilda

Travelogue

What does the Journey to St Kilda look like?

I discovered St Kilda during a strange time in my life. I had just completed my undergraduate degree in Architecture and was awarded a Lyceum Travel Fellowship for my capstone project. Unfortunately, just a few short months before my graduation in 2020, a global pandemic hit. With travel delayed for the foreseeable future, I applied for graduate school to obtain an accredited degree for architectural licensure.

Prior to 2020 I had no idea St Kilda even existed. My first semester of graduate school was centered around masonry and stonework in Cincinnati, Ohio. During the tail end of that semester, I branched out to learn about stone masonry around the world. Unique stone construction practices in Orkney led me to comparable practices in Lewis, which led me to the cleitean of St Kilda. The more I read about St Kilda, the more invested I became in the history and people. During a time of isolation due to a pandemic, stories of an isolated island community transported me to a world of adventure. It captured my attention and lit an idea in my head. What if I could tie together my schoolwork with my travel grant?

The next semester I petitioned for an independent study to begin researching and writing a book about St Kilda. The plan was to research and write for two semesters leading up to graduation. Then, directly following graduation in 2022 I would go to Scotland on my travel grant and embark on an expedition to document structures of St Kilda.

Luckily, my request was approved, and I began work immediately. When I graduated over half of the first draft was complete and travel plans were in place.

The Journey Begins

Unfortunately, things don’t always go as planned. My flight arrived in London on Friday May 13^th, 2022. Switching on my phone, a weather notice immediately popped up. The weather conditions were too rough for the planned departure to St Kilda on the 17^th. Go to St Kilda had it covered though, and they would try to get me on a departure a day early. I just had to get to the Isle of Skye a day earlier than planned. While on a train from London to Edinburgh I swapped my hostels and moved my flex-train tickets a day early. The next day the early departure on the 16^th was also forced to be canceled for safety, and the next weather opening wasn’t until the 21^st of May.

Luckily, I had scheduled my return trip from St Kilda on the 21^st so I already had a seat reserved on the boat. Despite this turn of good luck, it meant I now had to find somewhere to stay for five extra days. With most of the highlands fully booked for the start of the tourist season, Inverness became my home base, and I hopped between hostels with availability. I got a bus pass and spent my days wandering the surrounding area, slowly exploring everything from castles to bookshops. I stayed in a loch-side hostel, went swimming in Lochness, walked to the Clava Cairns, and accidentally took the bus too far past Brodie Castle. It was an unexpected adventure that I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

Third Fourth time is the charm

On the 20^th of May I jumped on a bus to Portree. At that point the weather turned again and the boat was delayed another day from the 21^st to the 22^nd. If the boat was canceled, I would have to turn back around and head back to Inverness, but I decided it was worth a shot.

Luckily Johnny McMaster, my kind Bed and Breakfast host in Stein, offered to pick me up in Portree since the taxis were all pre-booked for the day. With his help I made it the final leg of the journey to the Port of Stein where the Go to St Kilda boat departs. On the morning of May 22^nd, it was finally safe for the crossing to St Kilda. The ocean swells were moderate, making only two of the seven passengers seasick. I was glad not to be one of them.

The First View

My first sight of St Kilda was the misty cliffs of Boreray, with their awe-inspiring heights and treacherous drops. Birds circled and called to each other, flying from the cliffs to the ocean below. As we circled around the north side of Boreray to Stac an Armin, the mist cleared and Hirta became visible in the distance. Passing Stac Lee we sped towards Hirta, watching Boreray become smaller behind us. Rounding the sheer cliffs, Dun came into view followed shortly by the shores of Village Bay as we rounded the final corner.

Landing in Village Bay

Landing on the jetty in a small tender, I was greeted by Sue Loughran, the ranger on St Kilda. We were shortly joined by Julie Hunt, Chairman of the St Kilda Club who was Volunteering on the island. Julie kindly allowed me to bunk in the Factor’s House with her, rather than bunking alone in the Storehouse. Later that day the archeologist, Clare Henderson, kindly walked me around Village Bay discussing the buildings and various structures on the island. After chatting with Clare, I headed up to An Lag and the Gap to document the enclosures and see the view out to Boreray. Later that afternoon I began photographing and cataloging the Cleitean within the head dyke. That evening I had dinner with Julie, went on an evening stroll, and read a borrowed copy of An Isle Called Hirte.

Day 2

The next morning, I continued cataloging Cleitean. When the Go to St Kilda boat arrived, I checked in with the skipper and received the all-clear to stay on the island for another day. Returning to my documentation, an unexpected sound called me back down from the hills only a short time later. When I made it back down to the Jetty, I saw the source. Sometime in the morning several musicians had come ashore and started an impromptu concert on the grass.

After enjoying the music Clare and I set out for Gleann Mor. We walked the entirely of the glen from the Gob na h-Airde all the way to the Lover’s stone. Back at the military road Clare and I parted ways. Continuing on, I made my way across Ruival to the Mistress stone, getting back to the Factor’s House in time for dinner. Later that evening Julie and I were invited to join the rangers in the Manse for a movie night.

The Final Morning

The following morning was my final day on St Kilda, with the incoming weather I couldn’t stay any longer. That morning was spent finalizing my catalog and exploring the screes of Mullach Sgar. Climbing back down from the scree marked the end of my time on St Kilda. I gathered my backpack and headed towards the Jetty. After mailing several postcards I greeted the skipper, waved goodbye to Julie and the rangers, and climbed back into the tender. I watched as Hirta grew smaller in the distance, grateful to have seen the enchanting isles of St Kilda.